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South Andros bonefishing trip primer, part 2: The Travel, the food, the accommodations

South Andros bone fishing trip primer, part 2: Travel, food and Accommodations

A no nonsense, no fluff guide to fishing South Andros Bahamas. (mainly because I’m too lazy to type a novel) ;)

Note: to make it easier to reference I will keep useful articles like this in the review/how to section in the menu above.

Every time I travel to different area and I always wonder what to bring with me. Where to stay, how much things cost, and how much can I expect to pay?

I know you can do your research and  talk to friends. Invariably though you forget or get wrong information at times.

I’m not saying I am the expert by any means but I will do my best to help.

What to bring, where to stay, what to expect when you go fly fishing  for bone fish in South Andros, Bahamas.

Since I am wanting to be thorough I will be breaking this down into sections. Otherwise it would take me forever and the length of a small novel.

  1. Apparel and fishing gear
  2. The travel, the food, the accommodations
  3. The fishing

Note: If you are reading the Andros Primer for the first time, this is part 2 of 3 of the S. Andros Primer. You might find the first part of the primer helpful on what gear to bring there. I got links directly to the gear I brought over for the fishing trip. I didn’t add camera gear but if you are interested shoot me over an email. I will add it to the next article.

Traveling to Andros:

I flew out of Tampa on Spirit Airlines. (which seems to be the cheapest btw) The round trip from Tampa to the Nassau Bahamas ran about $350.00. This all depends on what amount of luggage you plan to bring.(btw: max is 50lbs per bag) If you just did a carry on you would be fine. If you were like me and wanted to bring all kinds of gear, it was $40 per bag.

Since this was not a direct flight, once we got to the Bahamas you had to book another trip over to S. Andros.  We flew a small local air line called Flamingo Air. This ran us about $70 per person on a 9 seater air plane.

All the regular homeland security procedures apply here, including checks with US customs on the way back.  So don’t think security is easy going just because you are coming back from the Bahamas. It wasn’t quite as strict as my flight back from Thailand but it was no cake walk either.

Once you are there however and doing the Bahamian thing and flying the Bahamian air lines things chill quite a bit.  Everyone is way more relaxed and people joke and laugh.

Note: You will need a US passport to enter the Bahamas. If you are not holder of a US passport you will need to bring your green card and the passport from the country of your citizen ship. Otherwise you will have to check with the Bahamian website for applicable Visa paperwork for proper entry.

The local foods:

Crab and Rice: A staple in the Bahamas as far as rice dishes are concern. Looks like a like “dirty rice” but like the name suggest it’s mixed with the local found crab. A far as a rice dish go it was good.

Conch Salad and Scorched (Bahamian word for score) Conch: This is made out of fresh conch. When you go to a “conch bar”, which is pretty much a shack for the most part. They go out and grab fresh conch out of the ocean for you.(they are stored there, tied up) Crack it open, clean it and starts to slice it up right in front of you. Onions, celery, sweet pepper & tomato are added and then the lime. This is more of ceviche type dish where the acid in the lime cooks the conch. It was excellent. The only different between the salads vs. the scorched is the size of the cuts of conch and garnish.

Typical Conch Bar in South Andros

Conch Fritters: You all probably have had this in the states but I have to tell you the conch fritters in the states are terrible compare to the ones in the Bahamas.  I don’t even order them in the states anymore. One difference is in the Bahamas they actually put some conch in them. When I get them in the states, I think they make some hush puppies and then just wave a piece of conch over it and call it “conch fritters”.

conch fritters

Conch Chowder: Awesome, lots of minced up conch in the soup. A must  try if you are a soup lover.

Curried Conch: this was one of least favorite dish, as the conch was kind of tough. The taste is good however but the conch itself was a bit chewy.

Nassau Grouper: Nothing new here, taste good but the way we had it prepared it was good but nothing different than getting grouper in the US.

Guava Duff: A must try local desert. A Guava puree rolled inside of a cake like texture bread. It is then drizzled in slightly sweet syrup. Not too sweet very nice after a meal.

Johnny Cake: It looks like pound cake but less sweet. A local favorite, it is served with many of the soup dishes.

johnny cake and fruit

Sheep’s Tongue: Sliced up sheep’s tongue, boiled in spices and served in a bowl. The texture is like chicken gizzards. I had to try it but I did not care much for it. Edible, kind of like chicken gizzards, I would not go out of my way for.

Sheeps Tongue

Pig’s feet: Boiled with spices and serve in a bowl. A stew consistency with the pig’s feet sliced up. Not very pleasing to the eye and fatty in texture. However it was very tasty and I would definitely order it again.

Pig's feet

Cracked Conch: Awesome dish sold in the states as well. However in the Bahamas the conch is a lot fresher and larger. Basically it’s fresh conch beaten down to make tender. Then it is breaded and fried. A must try dish in the Bahamas.

Typical dish Cracked Conch, crab and rice, corn

Grits and Tuna: A local breakfast dish. This is canned tuna mixed with spices. Not bad but then again it’s canned tuna.

Grits and Lobster: Excellent breakfast alternative. Chunks of lobster with grits can’t go wrong with that.

Conch Penis: Basically when the clean the conch there is a slender object about 4 inches that looks like a clear noodle. It’s kind of tasteless honestly. But some of the locals believe they are an aphrodisiac. Here’s the

YouTube video we shot: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cP-ut9Z3gcY

The local beers:

The scene every day after fishing, can't get anymore relaxing.

Kalik and Kalik gold( GOLD the stronger version of the beer is not available in the South Andros) was the drink of choice for most visitors over there. I know that was pretty much the only adult beverage I drank. This was because I didn’t want to get too crazy considering I was taking photos and fly fishing the next day.

Not strangely enough, all the locals drank were Heinekens and Guinness beers.

The accommodations:

Swain's Cay Resort S. Andros Bahamas

Since this was my first trip I can only tell you about one place I stayed. However I was there with guys that has visited the area in the past 6 years.

There are a few resorts on the Island but guys chose a place called “Swain’s Cay” (btw: Cay is pronounced key over there).

It was a 5-7 minute leisurely drive from the airport. Since it was pretty much only one road it was tough to get lost. We passed many scenic typical rustic Bahamian buildings. You will not find a CVS nearby. Though they have a small general store with basic items, don’t expect to find any Grey Poupon mustard there. What is cool though everything you “Really” need in life IS there.

The cab/fishing guide/bar owner/lobster (yes they have a lot of jobs there) dropped us off at Swain’s Cay and it was much cooler than I expected. The guys told me it was very basic. I don’t know what they are use to but to me it was pretty darn nice. There were 4-5 buildings on about 5 acres of land right on a bone fish flats. I mean you could literally on low tide, go wading and catch bonefish from the resort’s door. The grounds were well kept, the buildings looks like it was only a year or two old.

The small resort was very quiet which was awesome. No kids running around making all kinds of noise ruining my tranquil time. All you hear are birds, the ocean and while we were there lots of wind. It’s one of those places you could just stretch out in hammock and be undisturbed for a while.

Upon entering the rooms I was again surprised. It was air conditioned, tile floors, big bathroom, super comfortable bed and a view of the ocean though out double screen window. There was even your own private fenced in Jacuzzi in the back. Honestly this is better than most of the hotel rooms I’ve stayed at in the states.

The place to my surprised again even has free wi-fi. The signal in the ocean front rooms were not strong but I could walk over to the office and log right in and use my laptop or ipad no problem. James was using his ipad to skype with his family. Cell phone services is expensive over there so I left my cell off. I communicated via emails which worked out great!

Inside our room at Swain's Cay

Since there not much in local dining, all of our meals were at the resort. Every day we would get back from the fishing, we would clean up, tell them what time we would be back for dinner and leave for the conch bar for a few beers with the locals. By the time we get back dinner was ready.

That’s another thing, the dining room, bar area, kitchen, lanai hang out area was super clean and decorated nicely. You’re definite not going to get any complaints from me. Sanitary conditions never even crossed my mind here. It was impeccably cleaned daily and it was quite impressive. Again, it was more clean than most of the hotels I’ve stayed at in the states.

When we got back we would get 3-4 course meals of the local dishes. Most of the dishes were based on locally available seafood. We ate a variety of Conch, fish, crab, and lobsters. I know, it don’t sound too shabby does it?

In the morning we would tell them what time we would be getting up. We would join at the dining area and have breakfast. It wasn’t a “continental” breakfast. It was a “to ordered”. You could have the regular breakfast like many of the guys did(eggs, French toast, etc) but me I had to try the local dishes.

I tried the coconut pancakes, the tuna and grits and even the lobster and grits for breakfast. Yeah lobster and grits for breakfast awesome! Of course coffee, juices and off we go for a day of fishing.

Lunch was just your standard sandwich. They would pack our cooler full of waters and beers. I know it sounds pretty rough, but we did have to carry the cooler from the kitchen to the car.

All this time, I’m thinking good lord how much is all this going to cost? I didn’t expect to be catered to and ate so damn good in South Andros Bahamas. I mean I’m eating lobster for breakfast and 3 course meals for dinner. Not to mention all the Kalik beers we drank.

The ocean front resort stay in the South Andros Bahamas with breakfast, lunch and dinner was surprisingly affordable. When I saw the bill I was very happy to see it average about $200.00 us/day.

Unless you ate 70 cent cheeseburgers and peanut butter and jelly every day, Heck that’s what you would pay going to the keys or even Miami area.

There you have it, pretty much all you need to know for your first trip to S. Andros Bahamas  Bonfishing trip.

I will start working on the 3rd installment of the primer: “The fishing” soon. I hope you guys find this helpful.

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South Andros bonefishing trip primer, part 1: apparel and fishing gear

A no nonsense, no fluff guide to fishing South Andros Bahamas. (mainly because I’m too lazy to type a novel) ;)

Note: to make it easier to reference I will keep useful articles like this in the review/how to section in the menu above.

Every time I travel to different area and I always wonder what to bring with me.  I know you can do your research and  talked to friends. Invariably though you forget or get wrong information at times.

I’m not saying I am the expert by any means but I will do my best to help.

What to bring when you go fly fishing  for bone fish in South Andros, Bahamas.

Since I’m want to thorough I will be breaking this down into sections. Otherwise it would take me forever and the length of a small novel.

  1. Apparel and fishing gear
  2. The travel, the food, the accommodations
  3. The Fishing

Fishing gear:

  • The Rod:

A 6wt or 8wt will work just fine. The 8wt works great on windy days but on calm days the 6wt will work great.  I like a fast action rod (helps with cutting through the wind), but of course this depends on your preference. My choice was the G. Loomis GLX series. Being a four piece rod it packed nicely plus it has a very good fast action. Another good choice is the 8wt TFO BVK. At $249.00 retail w/ lifetime warranty, it’s a great rod to bring over.

  • The Reel:

The fly reel of choice was the Nautilus NV, not that I needed something that heavy duty but it was my only reel in that size. The drag is also waterproof. I have a Loop Opti salt as well, unfortunately only in 10 and 12 wt sizes.  I prefer a water proof drag fly reel just to be on the safe side.  The last thing I needed was an equipment failure if I accidentally dunk it wading or take underwater photos etc.

Another good choice would be the Nautilus FWX series. At about $300 super light weight and waterproof drag it would actually be a better choice than the NV for the Bahamas.

  • The line:

The line to use is a floating, weight forward saltwater line. You will be either wading or on the bow of a skiff. Distance and accuracy is what you aim for. The bone fish over there are not spooky compare to Islamorada bonefish.   The Cortland tropical taper+ was my choice on the big rod and an Orvis all purpose saltwater wonder line was on the 6wt. Any floating weight forward line will work just fine as long as it can handle the heat.

  • The Fly:

Unlike south Florida, the fly the bonefish prefer in the Bahamas are crazy charlies flies. I got a variety of them that I picked up at Flint Creek Outfitters but you can pick them up at any fly shop around town. I don’t think I have ever been to a fly shop in Florida that does not have crazy charlies flies. They run about two to three dollars. Tom, and the guys that I went with also tied a bunch so we were not in a shortage. They tell me to expect to lose a few flies each day of fishing due to break offs etc.  The main colors we used were white, pink , and tan.

The apparel:

Anytime I leave my comfort zone I always worry about what kind of clothes to bring. Going to the Bahamas for the first time was no different. Even though living in Florida, you would assume the climate was pretty similar, but one just never know.

I just usually walk around in “Croc Ace”  and shorts for the most part. One would figure the same for South Andros. This however would have been a mistake. There are insects over there locals call “doctor flies”. These guys look like big flies and they bite you and on one occasion drew blood from my toe.

One should wear long pants, long shirts, sun mask, hat and socks. The bugs are not as bad as the everglades or flamingo but it will make you life much more comfortable on the water.

Here’s what I recommend bringing when you do decide to make the trip. I will start from head to toe and give a reason why.

  • Hat:

I wore a trucker style (mesh in the back) cap from Simms. This seems to do just fine. A wide brim hat would work better but when you are running in a boat, those types of hats tend to get blown around. I’ve lost a few in my days so I can testify to that fact.

Polarized Sunglasses:

This is a must have! This will allow you to sight fish. The best colors I find are copper, amber, and yellow. I was wearing my Costa 580 but I also like the Smith Optics in amber.  The ones you get a Wal-Mart for $15 works too but if you going to be wearing something all day mine as well get something that is better in quality.

Face Mask:

Being bright and sunny out there just like Florida, a sun mask is a great idea. Not only will this item protect you from the sun but also from the bugs. Not to mention wind and rain when you are running. If  you’re like me I do not like applying sun lotion on my face every 30minutes.

Buff is the most popular of these masks for fishing anyways. Local companies like Skinny Water Culter and Breath Like a Fish also has their version and works just fine. BLF, Simms and I huntfish shirts even has them built right into the shirts so you can’t forget them.

  • Shirts:

For shirts I’m pretty picky when it comes to what I wear on the water. Not that I’m a trendy guy but I just want to be comfortable and protected. Typical fishing shirts get wet, they get dirty plus they need to keep you nice and cool. For the most part I try to wear things that function well on the water.

It has to be long sleeves.  It has to dry quickly. It has to protect you from the sun and they have to be comfortable.

While over there I used microfibers shirts. Most all microfibers shirts will do these days but I was pimping Redzone, Ihuntfish, SWC, BLF. I also liked the button up fishing shirts from Simms (the simms with the hood I found to be too hot) and Underarmour.  Due to the big vents in the shirts of BLF, though it kept me cool, the bugs got to me easier.

I tend to stay away from cotton when fishing however. It is comfortable until it gets wet. Once it gets wet you will be wet all day. This is not comfortable in hot weather and it is deadly in cold weather.

A light rain jacket is also a must. Being a tropical environment it will rain. If you have an option bring a breathable one. This will be a lot more comfortable. I brought along the Simms In-Vest Rain Jacket, super light weight.

  • Pants:

For the most part, long pants are a must out there. Long pants are preferred not only for the sun protection, but also to protect you from the “Doctor Flies”.  I use the Exoffico and Simms pants, they are lightweight and sturdy.  They are also made out of quick drying material. This will keep me nice and dry if I get rained on or decide to take a swim or do some underwater photos.

It’s one thing for your pants to be wet, it’s really annoying for your underwear to be wet. I packed three Exoffico micro fiber underwear for my four day trip.  Every day, I would hand wash them as I take a shower and hang it dry. For the most part, they would be ready the next day. This saves me weight on the travels and the issue of having to do laundry was no longer a concern.

I picked mine up at Flint Creek Outfitters here Tampa but you can get these at most outdoor stores. The Basspro brands are cheaper and will work as well. They however are not as sturdy imho. The ones I have own seem to start tearing after about season.

  • The Feet:

Feet protection is pretty important when it comes to fly fishing the Bahamas. Not only because many times you want to get out and do are some wading but you also standing on your feet most of the day.

As far as wading there, any saltwater wading shoes will work just fine. It is hard bottom and you can stand up most anywhere there.  Since most of my fishing was on the boat I try to bring the cheap $20-$30 pair to save on weight.  A good pair in that price range would be the BassPro Flatsboots.

Most of the time though, I wear my Croc Ace 90% of the time and fishing the S. Andros with them was not a problem. Unlike the regular Croc they have boat bottom on them. This keeps me from slipping and they last a lot longer than normal Croc. The EVA foam that it is made does not absorb moisture or odor. This is a big problem when you get it wet quite a  bit. Most shoes will eventually starts smelling pretty rancid if you get them wet all the time.

One thing to remember is to bring some socks. This is especially true when wearing shoes like Crocs which has holes in them. Not that is cold but the “doctor” bugs can bite you through the holes. The socks helps tremendously.